从杜布罗夫尼克(Dubrovnik)乘坐巴士前往莫斯塔尔(Mostar),我踏上了这场期待已久的背包旅行。莫斯塔尔,这座历史悠久的波黑城市,以其独特的文化背景和风景如画的老城吸引着无数游客。巴士驶离亚得里亚海的蓝色海岸线,穿过连绵起伏的山脉,进入波斯尼亚的广袤平原。经过约三个小时的行程,傍晚时分我抵达了莫斯塔尔。

Taking a bus from Dubrovnik to Mostar, I embarked on this long-awaited backpacking trip. Mostar, a historic city in Bosnia and Herzegovina, draws countless visitors with its unique cultural background and picturesque old town. The bus left the blue Adriatic coastline behind, winding through rolling mountains and into the vast plains of Bosnia. After about three hours, I arrived in Mostar in the early evening.

第一天:抵达莫斯塔尔与市区闲逛

到了莫斯塔尔,首先办理了旅馆的入住。这家小旅馆坐落在市中心,虽然设施简朴,但它温馨的氛围和友善的工作人员立刻让我感到宾至如归。放下背包后,夜色已开始悄然降临,但市区的活力依然可见。

Upon arriving in Mostar, I checked into a small guesthouse in the city center. Though simple, its cozy atmosphere and friendly staff made me feel right at home. After settling in and unpacking my backpack, I noticed the evening was quietly descending, yet the city was still full of life.

莫斯塔尔的夜晚有一种特别的魅力。街道两旁的餐馆和咖啡馆渐渐亮起灯光,空气中弥漫着烤肉的香味和咖啡的浓香。由于第一天的行程没有特别的安排,我选择在市中心悠闲地漫步,体验这座城市的夜生活。

Mostar’s nightlife had a special charm. Restaurants and cafes along the streets began to light up, and the air was filled with the aromas of grilled meat and rich coffee. With no specific plans for the first day, I decided to wander around the city center, immersing myself in its evening vibe.

经过一番游走,我找到了一家小餐馆,决定品尝当地的美食。点了一份经典的Ćevapi——这道由烤肉卷和洋葱搭配烤皮塔饼的传统餐点,简朴却十分美味。用餐后,我继续在市区闲逛,感受夜晚莫斯塔尔的宁静与祥和。

After strolling around, I found a small restaurant and decided to try the local cuisine. I ordered the classic Ćevapi—a simple yet delicious dish of grilled meat rolls served with onions and pita bread. After dinner, I continued wandering through the quiet, peaceful streets, soaking in Mostar’s tranquil night atmosphere.

第二天:克拉维察瀑布与老桥的魔力

第二天一早,我决定前往莫斯塔尔周边著名的自然景点——克拉维察大瀑布(Kravica Waterfalls)。早早搭上了前往Ljubuski的小巴士,路程虽然不远,但沿途的风景却十分迷人,田野和山丘在阳光下显得格外宁静。

On the second morning, I decided to visit one of the famous natural attractions near Mostar—Kravica Waterfalls. I caught an early bus to Ljubuski. Though the journey wasn’t long, the scenery along the way was breathtaking, with sunlit fields and hills creating a peaceful backdrop.

抵达瀑布后,我被眼前的自然奇观深深震撼。宽阔的瀑布从高高的岩石间奔涌而下,水流声轰鸣,周围的绿色植被映衬着这片瀑布,使其看起来如同一片仙境。

Upon reaching the waterfalls, I was overwhelmed by the natural beauty before me. The wide falls cascaded down from high cliffs, roaring as they plunged into the pool below. Surrounded by lush green vegetation, the scene looked like a paradise.

下午回到莫斯塔尔,时间还早,我决定去探索一个新的地方——带上一瓶当地的啤酒,独自前往城市附近的一座小山坡,准备观看日落。

In the afternoon, I returned to Mostar with time to spare. I decided to explore a new spot. I grabbed a bottle of local beer and headed to a nearby hilltop on my own, planning to watch the sunset.

我找了一处安静的地方坐下,打开啤酒,静静等待日落的到来。夕阳慢慢沉入地平线,城市的轮廓在金色的余晖中渐渐模糊。

I found a quiet spot to sit down, opened my beer, and waited peacefully for the sunset. As the sun slowly dipped below the horizon, the outline of the city blurred in the golden glow.

晚上,趁着夜色,我前往莫斯塔尔最具标志性的景点——莫斯塔尔老桥(Stari Most)。这是我这趟旅行最期待的一刻,老桥作为莫斯塔尔的象征,它不仅是一座桥,更是历史和文化的见证。

That evening, under the cover of night, I made my way to Mostar’s most iconic site—the Stari Most (Old Bridge). This was the moment I had been anticipating the most. As a symbol of the city, the bridge not only serves as a crossing but also stands as a testament to its rich history and culture.

当我走近老桥时,夜晚的微风轻拂,周围的小店和咖啡馆灯火辉煌,游客和当地人都在享受着夜晚的悠闲时光。站在桥上,内雷特瓦河(Neretva River)在桥下静静流淌,桥的两端都可以俯瞰老城的美景,河水在月光下显得格外宁静与神秘。

As I approached the bridge, a gentle night breeze blew through the illuminated cafes and shops nearby. Both tourists and locals were enjoying the calm evening. Standing on the bridge, I gazed down at the Neretva River flowing quietly beneath. The city’s old town, seen from both ends of the bridge, appeared peaceful and mysterious under the moonlight.

旅行的收获与感悟

两天的莫斯塔尔之旅虽然短暂,但却充满了丰富的体验。克拉维察大瀑布带来的自然震撼,山坡上独自观看日落的宁静时刻,老桥上音乐声中那份难以言喻的浪漫,所有的这些记忆都让我对这座城市有了深刻的印象。

My two-day journey in Mostar, though short, was full of memorable experiences. The breathtaking sight of Kravica Waterfalls, the solitude of watching the sunset from a hill, and the indescribable romance of the music on the Old Bridge—all these moments left me with a deep appreciation for the city.